Let's be Frank
By Frank ThomasPosted: March 10, 2009
Are You Spending Too Much on Golf Balls?
Frank,
I’m a 6-handicapper who has played Pro V1 balls regularly over the last three seasons. I carry my driver 235-240 yards and my 8-iron flies 150. When I'm playing well I shoot in the mid- to high-70s.
Here is my question: With the cost of premium golf balls on the rise ($42-46 per dozen plus tax here in New York State), would I notice that big of a difference if I played a less expensive ball, say in the $25-30 range? I am tempted to try Titleist NXT Tour, Bridgestone E5+, Callaway HX Hot or TaylorMade TP Burner, but am worried I might lose something - distance, feel and spin around the greens. Should I stick with a Tour-level ball like the Pro V1 based on my handicap, distances and scores?
Your thoughts would be appreciated.
Waiting for your answer in snowy Buffalo.
– John
John,
With your low handicap and carry distance, you should have a driver clubhead speed of approximately 98 mph. Also, if you shoot between 75 and 80 you are in the top 10 percent skill level of all male golfers, which is very good. Obviously you enjoy the game and the ball you are using now, and for good reason; it is a premium ball and has good all-round performance properties which you are able to recognize and appreciate. There is no harm in testing a sleeve of NXT Tour balls or some of the others you have mentioned just to assure yourself that you can tell the difference.
You may not be a Tour-quality golfer (yet), but you will occasionally hit shots that a Tour player would enjoy. For this reason, you want a ball which will complement your ability and not compromise a well executed shot. Some of the balls you mentioned are multi-layered and very good substitutes for most golfers, and in fact may be better for the slower swing speeds and less skill around the green.
In your case, you have made the transition and can take advantage of the subtleties that a premium ball offers.
To cope with the dent in your wallet, keep the ball in the fairway more often and postpone buying a new driver – especially if the one you have feels good and is not more than three years old. If your driver is starting to age then think about getting a new one, or last year’s model which will be as technically advanced – or very close – to this year’s version but at half the price. This will leave you with enough money to get those premium balls, and you may even have enough left over for the occasional beer without flinching.
Stay warm and think GOLF – it will help melt the snow in Buffalo.
Frank
Are Your Shafts Too Stiff?
Hello Frank,
First, thanks for reading my question. I have recently re-shafted my Mizuno TP-19 irons, which date back to 1992. The original shafts were becoming pitted, so I decided to re-shaft with the same shaft (DG 300 Stiff-flex) and grips. I made sure the new shafts were cut exactly as the ones I took out, however, I found them to be quite a bit more flexible. My question is whether it’s possible for the old shafts to become “stiffer” over age, or are the newer shafts these days made to be more flexible?
Thanks,
Colin
Colin,
Thank you for your support and I hope you are a Frankly Friend. If not, please sign up at www.franklygolf.com to stay in the equipment information loop. It would be good to have your friends to do the same. The more Frankly Friends there are, the more influence we will have on the game we enjoy so much.
There may be some work hardening of the shafts over time and with heavy usage, but I doubt this is what has happened in your case. I assume you noticed this difference with all of the clubs in your re-shafted set. If work hardening had taken place, then it would be different throughout the set because you use some clubs considerably more than others.
I believe that in your case, the new shafts are a little more flexible. You should know that there are no standards across the industry for shaft stiffness, although one would expect the shafts from the same manufacturer to have similar properties. However, these may have changed over the last 17 years.
As you have re-shafted your clubs with the same (we believe) shafts, cut the same way, the same length and with the same grips, they should have the same natural frequency. If the frequency is lower than that of your previous set, then the shafts are more flexible because everything else is the same.
A frequency measurement is done with a device which counts the number cycles of vibration a club will have when clamped at the butt end and plucked. It is similar to a long bladed knife being stuck in a piece of wood and plucked. The cycles (vibrations) per minute will change if the weight of the knife’s handle is different and/or the blade is stiffer. The frequency test is a good means of matching clubs as it takes shaft stiffness into account.
A frequency check will answer your question.
It is not a bad thing – if we are looking for a silver lining – that the shafts are all a little softer. Try them out before you decide to switch back to a stiffer shaft.
Good luck
Frank
Please note: By submitting your question to Frank you will automatically become a Frankly Friend so you can stay up to date with his golf equipment Q&A. You may unsubscribe at any time.
Frank Thomas, inventor of the graphite shaft, is founder of Frankly Golf, a company dedicated to helping golfers. Frank is chief technical advisor to GolfChannel.com. He served as technical director of the USGA for 26 years and directed the development of the GHIN system and introduced the Stimpmeter to the world of golf. To email a question for possible use in an upcoming Let's Be Frank column, please email letsbefrank@franklygolf.com 
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mrcraven on 03/17/2009, at 9:35 AM EST
“I am sure every location is different, but where I am in the Tampa Bay area there are many flea markets. These flea markets have golf sections that sell used balls. There are alot of hackers who hit a Pro V1 once in the trees to later be found sold at discount. I buy a 12-pack for $17.00 ”